If you’re hunting for RV trash can options, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Floorplans, storage, and how you travel change the right setup. In many RVs, a smaller can with a tight-sealing lid, basic odor control, and secure mounting beats a larger can that bangs around while driving.
Below is a no-fluff guide to where to put it, which types actually work, and how to keep it quiet and odor-free on the road.
Where to put a trash can in your RV (and why)
Kitchen (under-sink or beside the galley)
- Under-sink is popular because it hides the bag and contains smells. Measure width, depth, and height from floor to the lowest point of the P-trap. Open the door fully and check hinge swing-slide-out kits and tall lids need clearance.
- Beside the galley (end of a cabinet run) works if you use a slim/narrow can. Add non-slip pads underneath to stop sliding and felt dots on nearby panels to kill rattles.
Better fix: use a narrow profile under the sink and add soft bumpers so the can does not thump in turns.
Bathroom
- Go small (2–4 gal.) with a lidded can. Moisture plus paper equals odor fast. If floor space is tight, use a door-mounted caddy or a hanging bag on the vanity door (adhesive hook + reusable ring).
Pantry/closet
- Great for double bins (trash + recycling) using a slide-out caddy. Watch shelf lips and door frames-leave ~½” of clearance so the bin doesn’t scuff or squeak.
Cab/console (tiny bits and road snacks)
- A cup-holder or console bin keeps micro-trash out of sight during long drives. Empty it into the main can at stops.
Outside / exterior compartment
- For cooking outside or fishy/greasy waste, a collapsible can with a lid and heavy bags keeps smells out of the rig. Weigh it down and never leave food waste out overnight; animals and wind will find it.
Types of RV trash cans that actually work in small spaces
Cabinet-mounted (inside door)
Hangs on a cabinet door; some include a flip-up lid and bag ring.
Pros: out of sight, odor reduction, uses “dead” space.
Watch-outs: door thickness, hinge clearance, and how hard you swing the door.
Slide-out kits (pull-out)
Rails + a single or double bin mounted in a base cabinet.
Pros: ergonomic, perfect for separating trash/recycling.
Watch-outs: install height vs. plumbing, rail depth, screw length (don’t pierce the cabinet floor).
Over-the-door / hanging bag holders
Simple frames or adhesive rings that hold a bag.
Pros: ultra-cheap, zero footprint, quick to remove.
Watch-outs: no rigid walls-odor control relies on the bag and lid option.
Narrow/slim floor cans
Tall and thin; great at the end of a cabinet or next to the fridge.
Pros: easy fit in tight corridors.
Watch-outs: can tip when half-full-use a Velcro® industrial strip or base plate.
Collapsible cans (indoor/outdoor)
Pop-up fabric or silicone options for campsites or temporary setups.
Pros: stores flat, big capacity outside.
Watch-outs: must have a zip top or cover for odor/critters.
Cup-holder/console mini cans
For the cockpit.
Pros: reduces clutter while driving.
Watch-outs: empty often-no one wants “dashboard landfill.”
How to choose size and shape (so it fits, doesn’t bang, and doesn’t smell)
- Measure like a cabinetmaker.
- Width x depth x height of the space. Subtract ½ inch in each direction for wiggle room and air flow.
- For doors: measure door thickness and hinge swing so lids and frames don’t collide.
- Match the bag first, then the bin.
- Bathrooms: 2–4 gal liners; kitchen compact setups: 8 gal; larger slide-outs: 10–13 gal.
- Pick the bag size you can buy anywhere; it’s your real constraint.
- Prioritize the lid style for odor control.
- Tight-seal lid beats a loose swing-top in a warm rig. If you already own a can with a sloppy lid, a strip of thin weatherstripping around the rim can make it nearly airtight.
- Once gaps are sealed, warm-weather odor is much easier to control.
- Material and noise.
- Plastic is light and quiet; metal is durable but can rattle. Add felt pads where the can could touch wood. My first metal unit was noisy; padding + downsizing solved it.
- Frequency of emptying.
- A smaller can you empty daily usually smells less than a big one left to stew. I also keep spare bags rolled up in the bottom of the can so swaps are instant.
Odor and leak control that actually works
- Seal the system. Tight lid + weatherstripping if needed.
- Absorb and neutralize. A tablespoon of baking soda in the bottom (my go-to) or a small charcoal sachet taped inside the lid.
- Double-bag the messy stuff. Meat trays, diapers, and food scraps go in a second bag or straight to an outside can.
- Heat is the enemy. Don’t park your indoor can against a warm appliance or in direct sun.
- Empty on a schedule. Daily in hot weather, every other day in cooler temps. Quick rinse of the bin with mild soap keeps bacterial film down.
- Compostables? Only if you have the right setup and local rules allow it; otherwise, freeze food scraps in a zip bag and toss at the next stop-no smell, no drips.
Real-world note: after I put baking soda in the base and upgraded the seal, I could finally cook with the windows closed without catching a whiff from the bin.
Securing and silencing your setup while driving
- Mounts that work:
- Industrial hook-and-loop under the base (easy, removable).
- Screw-in cradle or L-bracket for slide-outs (most secure).
- Adhesive pads + non-slip mat for slim cans against walls.
- Rattle killers: felt dots where plastic meets wood, foam tape on the back edge, a thin bungee to stop lid flapping.
- Weight rule: don’t travel with the bag more than ¾ full; weight shifts amplify banging.
- Routing: keep the can clear of slide mechanisms and heater vents.
What solved it for me: downsizing the can + soft bumpers + a small Velcro base-no more banging through curves.
Exterior setup, recycling, and camp etiquette
- Outdoor collapsible with a zip lid for fishy/meaty waste; stake it or weigh it down.
- Two-bin routine: one for trash, one for recycling (flatten cans/bottles to save runs).
- Critter-safe habits: don’t leave food waste out overnight; move bags to a secured compartment.
- Leave No Trace: pack out what you packed in, especially off-grid.
Organization hacks that save time
- Spare-bag stash: Keep extra liners rolled up in the bottom of the can for quick changes.
- Color-code (black for trash, blue/clear for recycling) so family/guests don’t mix streams.
- Quick-clean kit: a travel spray bottle (mild soap + water), a cloth, and a tablespoon of baking soda in a shaker.
Quick comparison table
| Type | Best spot | Biggest pro | Watch-out |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabinet-mounted | Kitchen/bath vanity | Hidden, uses door space | Door clearance, hinge clash |
| Slide-out kit | Base cabinet/pantry | Ergonomic, easy recycling | Rail depth, install time |
| Over-door/hanging | Kitchen/bath | Zero footprint, cheap | Weak odor control without lid |
| Slim/narrow can | End of galley/fridge | Fits corridors | Tips unless secured |
| Collapsible | Outside/utility | Packs flat, big capacity | Needs lid; critters/wind |
| Console/cup-holder | Cab | Catches micro-trash | Must empty often |
Buy-right checklist (print-friendly)
- Space (W × D × H) measured? □
- Door and hinge clearance checked? □
- Bag size chosen (2–4 gal, 8 gal, 10–13 gal)? □
- Lid type for odor control selected? □
- Mounting method (Velcro, screws, slide-out, adhesive) planned? □
- Noise reducers (felt pads/foam tape) on hand? □
- Baking soda/charcoal for odor ready? □
- Spare liners stored in the can’s base? □
FAQs
What size trash can fits under most RV sinks?
There’s no universal size, but many under-sink spaces accept 8-gallon liners in a compact bin. Measure first and leave ~½” clearance around the bin and lid.
How do I stop RV trash can smells in the summer?
Use a tight-seal lid, add weatherstripping if the rim leaks, keep baking soda in the bottom, avoid heat sources, and empty daily. Double-bag scraps or freeze them until disposal.
What’s the best trash can for boondocking?
A slide-out double bin (trash + recycling) inside plus a collapsible zip-top outside covers most needs. Protect the outdoor can from animals and wind.
How do I keep the can from moving while driving?
Mount it: industrial hook-and-loop under the base or a bracket for slide-outs. Add felt pads at contact points and a bungee if the lid flaps.
Is a bigger can better for families?
Only if you empty it frequently. A smaller, sealed can that you empty more often usually smells less and takes up less space.
Conclusion
The best RV trash can options balance fit, sealing, and mounting. For most RVs, smaller + sealed + secured beats big + loose. Measure first, match your bag size, pick a lid that actually seals, and give yourself a mounting plan and a few odor hacks-you’ll notice the difference on day one.
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FAQ
What size trash can is best for an RV?
Most RVs work best with a small 2 to 6 gallon indoor can plus a larger outdoor or collapsible option for campsite use.
Where should you put a trash can in an RV?
Good spots include under the sink, inside a cabinet door, beside the galley, in a narrow gap, or outside under supervision when parked.
How do you keep RV trash from smelling?
Use smaller liners, empty often, separate food scraps, keep the lid closed, wipe leaks immediately, and avoid storing full bags inside overnight.
Should an RV trash can have a lid?
Yes for indoor use. A lid helps with odor, movement, and visual clutter, especially in a small enclosed space.
How do you secure a trash can while driving?
Use cabinet storage, Velcro straps, bungee cords, anti-slip mats, or a latching slide-out so the can cannot tip or slide during turns.